Okay…I’m a sucker for vintage yarn sometimes. I found this great yarn at a Garage Sale hiding in a bin with some gross acrylic yarn. My eagle eye spied 6 balls of this charming Patons Bee-Hive yarn, and it became mine (after a little pre-requisite bargaining). I purchased 6 balls for $3.00! (They wanted $4.00, I wanted to pay $2.00, and we compromised at $3.00. So, now it’s on to knitting socks!
I have strong opinions about how to knit socks so they fit. First of all, I like for socks to have a slight “negative ease”. Negative ease means the socks will stretch to fit the feet, and that the socks look smaller than the feet when they’re not being worn. If socks are larger than the feet they’re intended for (called “positive ease”), they’ll be floppy and your shoes will “eat” your socks. In my experience, socks with negative ease wear longer (or else my family is not hard on socks).
About heels, the heel encompasses 50% of the leg stitches, and the heel flap should be square before turning, as in the above sock. If the heel is not long enough (too flattishly rectangular, if you will, instead of square) the leg will begin to sag, and you’ll forever be pulling your socks up, and that’s a pain. I’ve noticed that the short row heel (the one without a flap, as shown in the entrelac sock below) is not a very deep heel and tends to pull down the back of the sock leg. Had I been a better photographer, and laid the heel flat, it would look short and insubstantial. But they’re in my daughter’s dorm room and out of reach for a better photo!
Also, when I turn a heel, I try to get as many short rows after the heel flap as possible. It looks more foot-like. I’ll explain that in the Heel section of my sock patterns
Top down socks using shell lace pattern which is carried down the instep.
Size: Ladies Medium (I wear size 6½ shoe). This yarn is stretchy and forgiving, so just make the foot longer to accommodate a larger foot.
- 1 Ball Plymouth Bungee (95% Superwash Wool, 5% Elite Spandex, 403 yards per ball), Color 24 Teal
- Size 4 Double Pointed Needles, set of 4 (or 5 if preferred)
- Notions: tapestry needle, scissors
Gauge: 13 stitches = 2” (Row measurement is not vital. Just make the sock leg and foot to your size requirements.)
Pattern Notes: I’m a tight knitter, so if you know that you knit rather loosely, you’ll want to try these socks on smaller needles.
About Knitting Lace: Make sure you have experience with knitting lace back and forth before you attempt to knit these lace socks in the round! Also make sure you have experience knitting socks from the top down. There’s just no way I can help you knit this through the internet. Your best bet would be to make a new friend who is an awesome knitter!
My Sock Philosophy: Please read my blog post entitled “My Sock Philosophy” in which I explain why I knit socks the way I do. Stitch Pattern: Shell Lace Pattern This pattern is from Barbara Breiter but I converted it to be knit in the round.) ALSO, when beginning each even row you need to “borrow” the last stitch of the odd row. That means that the Sl 1 stitch of the even row is really the last stitch of the row you just finished.
Shell Lace Socks
Please feel free to use this pattern for your personal use only.